Friday, April 1, 2016

And I thought L.A. was Ostentatious

8/11/15

Seriously, we need another week just to scrape the surface of all there is to see in Beijing. There’s so much history and architecture to see here that two hours, walking at a senior group pace is simply NOT enough time! And trying to cram in not one but TWO iconic sights in that amount of time is ridiculous. But here we go – making the absolute MOST of our last day!!

This illustration (courtesy of kinabaloo.com) might help out the Summer Palace grounds into perspective 

Our first stop was the Summer Palace, an expansive and beyond-lavish oasis built in 1764, in the middle of the city amid a lush one square mile park surrounding the Kinming Lake.  The emperor had the Summer Palace complex (it’s actually many buildings, pavilions, bridges and boat docks, not just a single palace) built to escape the heat of the city during – you guessed it! – Beijing’s sweltering summers. There were multiple ornate gates and halls, designated for various activities of meditation, political or philosophical discussion, female seclusion, and aside from just the private quarters for the emperor. The level of opulence was jaw-dropping. Not only did the emperor require a separate room for every single one of his daily thoughts or activities, his daily meals also had to meet every anticipated whim or hankering he might have. The best chefs in the country were required to prepare every single one if his favorite dishes for each meal, which he would take a few bites of and then move on to the next dish [NN: or he might never even ask for that specific dish on a given meal, thus never even touched]. As you can imagine, most of the food was simply uneaten and wasted; it’s estimated a single meal at the Summer Palace could have fed three different families for a full three years!! (Not that things are much better today, with nearly 1/3 of current global food production going to landfills and nearly 800 million people going hungry worldwide…but that’s a different discussion). 

What not to do in the park

Pretty lotus flower

Pavilion of Flourishing Culture

Water writing


Water writer

Shuimuziqin Gate

According to our guide, the palace complex also boasts the world’s longest covered wooden corridor. Built in 1750 and made of 273 sections linking all of the buildings and pathways along the length of the lake, the Long Corridor is an impressive 728 meters long. Walking the length of the corridor during the height of Chinese summer vacation season felt like maneuvering through rush hour on foot. It did, however, allow me to play one of my favorite travel games: Where’s Nick? Which is played very much like Where’s Waldo but instead of looking for the distinct stipes, you just look for the tallest head in the crowd. Travel across China, this game never got old ;P [NN: Yup, another place where strangers asked to have their photo taken with me.]

Long Corridor east entrance

Long Corridor ceiling detail

Long Corridor ceiling detail

Long Corridor painting detail

Long Corridor painting detail

Long Corridor painting detail

Long Corridor painting detail
The most impressive part of the Summer Palace was how every inch of wall space on every building was lavishly painted with animals, women, warriors, and symbols of all kinds (the Long Corridor supposedly has upwards of 14,000 paintings alone). Another reason the path was so congested: you had to walk slowly in order to see it all and take everything in. Much of the palace has been restored (after being burned down in 1860 during the “Great Humiliation” or what Westerners refer to as the Opium War) so the paint was quite vibrant and the detail impressive. However, even the buildings that had yet to be stored still held a lot of antique charm and beauty with their scorched, soot covered frescos and splitting wood frames. The palace also boasts the world’s largest marble boat – yup, a massive block of floating marble. As you can imagine, it’s so heavy it was never able to sail across the lake – you would think the emperor or engineers would have realized this ahead of time [NN: I’m sure the engineer knew, but when an emperor says jump you jump, or else he’ll cut your ankles off.] – so it just sits docked for you to look at; visitors are not allowed to step foot on it. We were able to take a small dragon boat across the lake before we left, which earned us lots of fingers pointing and giggles from the on-looking Chinese kids. J

Sea of Wisdom Temple

Small Temple

Tower of Buddhist Incense
Cloud Dispelling Gate

Cloud Dispelling Gate Detail

Nick in Long Corridor

Long Corridor Pagoda

The pebbles are foot massage walkways

Tourist dragon boat
Jason demonstrating Tai Chi exercise game


Where's Nick?

Where's Nick?

Southwest corner of Long Corridor

Small House

Marble Boat

Marble Boat detail

Dragon King's Temple
Our day couldn’t end there though – after lunch we hit up another (& our last thankfully!) obligatory souvenir store stop. This one was a pearl store, where we received a thorough lesson in how to tell freshwater from saltwater, real from fake pearls…a subtly which of course I still can’t detect. 

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