Friday, August 14, 2015

And So It Begins

8/1/15 


Follow the red flag
Unfortunately, we quickly learned the reason for low season right now is the oppressive 90+ degree heat and equal percent humidity. I know I grew up in Texas with this kind of weather but I am DEFINITELY not used to it anymore. And there’s no escaping into an air-conditioned building when you’re walking around town sightseeing for hours on end. But armed with layers of sunscreen, a hat, several bottles of water (since we have been advised not to drink tap water or have any ice, I have become a water bottle hoarder), and Chinese fans (LOL) we powered through. No doubt we stood out like sore thumbs: a crowd of white people (some quite tall) following a short Chinese man carrying a little red flag, speaking into a microphone. We looked exactly like the stereotypical Chinese tourists you see in the U.S. snapping pictures while walking and trailing behind a moving flag pole (ha ha).

Water stash

Yu Garden
Our first visit was to Yu Yuan Gardens in the Old Quarter of Shanghai, built during the Ming Dynasty (1577). The rock gardens are beautiful and the pavilions really do seem like they would have been a nice, peaceful place to sit and contemplate. At least if you were a man. As we learned from our guide. (And I will say, it’s always worth it to pay for a tour guide – they can always tell you so much more than a pamphlet or even the best guide book.) He told us that the covered walkways between the pavilions often had two lanes, divided off from each other to allow the men to walk along the water and be seen, and for the women to be hidden and sheltered on the back side of the house. Not that this comes as a surprise – I think almost all ancient (and not so ancient) cultures subjugated women and hid them or their body parts from public view, barring them from education or free will – aside from music lessons, cooking or textiles.(NN: See how much we have progressed… pretty much all women’s body parts are in full display all the time in our advertisements and entertainment today. Ah progress ;-) But the old structures and gardens were impressive. The intricate symbolism and stonework was remarkable.

Yu Garden

Divided Walkway - Women on the left, men on the right 
Ornate Roofs
Bats!
Bird not afraid of a dragon fish
Roof Sculptures
Roof Sculptures
Roof Sculptures
Roof Sculptures
Roof Sculptures
Reception Room
Inner Pond
Covered Bridge

One point of note on the Yu Garden: in the past, only the emperor could use the symbol of the dragon – a representation of all good powers combined – and anyone found usurping the symbol themselves would be put to death. As you’ll see in the pictures, the entire inner and outer wall of the Yu Garden is designed to look like an undulating dragon (to very cool effect). When reprimanded for this offense, he told the emperor that a) he had not commissioned a “real” dragon, as his only had 3 toes compared to the emperor’s which had 5 and b) more importantly, he was not using the dragon to represent himself. But rather, he was the toad sitting below the dragon, benefitting from the oversight and protection of the all-powerful dragon/emperor. (NN: As I am but a simple toad standing underneath the majesty that is Catherine’s dragon.) The flattery worked and the garden still stands. (NN: Not sure it works as well with Catherine as it did with the Emperor.)

Frog Below Dragon
Nick = frog & Cat = dragon

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